The wave lifts, you feel your board rise, then with a great surge of power, you drop and the force of the great water propels you to shore like a rocket.
That is how it felt to me when I caught a perfect wave. I was never a surfer, but would boogie board for hours at a time in times past.
Confronted with big waves, waves that were taller than me, I had four options:
Dive under it.
Jump over it.
Go back and sit on the shore.
Get past the break line, and turn and line up for the ride.
Lately, my life is pretty much the big waves. They seem a bit scary, but they are also beautiful. Powerful and alive. I have the same four options. If I can manage past the break line, power through with God’s power, turn and look around me, I will be on top of the wave. His strength will propel me to shore, and what a ride it will be.
Praying God’s power for you today as you paddle past the break line. Love, Lisa